If clothes do indeed make the man, then why wear clothing made for just ANY man?
Bespoke Fashion: The Luxury of Customized Tailoring
Because one size does NOT suit all
by Roxanne Blanford
The next time you find yourself on the streets of your local business district or dining at a restaurant with a sidewalk view, spare a moment to do some essential people watching. It won’t be long before you come to the obvious conclusion that no two individuals are built exactly alike.
Take men, for example. From the seasoned athlete to the couch potato, from the tall and broad shouldered to the short and stout, the bodies of men are all unique structures onto their own. Finding the perfect fitting suit or jacket for an imperfect body can oftentimes pose a huge challenge. More importantly, in today’s high-pressured world of hedge funds and international high-finance, it is the confident, singularly well-dressed man on the other side of the negotiation table who consistently triumphs. Whether closing that multi-million dollar deal, hosting a client dinner or walking along the Champs-Élysées, when it comes to matters of individual style, custom fit and a taste for refined fashion, men of distinction agree on one thing: Nothing speaks louder than bespoke tailoring.
Once the prerogative of the social and political elite, bespoke tailoring represents the highest quality in luxury apparel. Created in absence of a pre-existing pattern, measurements for bespoke clothing are often chalked directly onto the fabric. The cut is specifically designed to conform to a customer’s unique physique and particular requests. Stitched by hand and often requiring months of meticulous manual measurements and multiple fittings based on a customer’s personal consultations and pattern choices, the end result of bespoke tailoring is an exclusive garment whose fit and look has no rival. Custom made suits may cost anywhere from $3,000 to $10,000 USD - and even beyond.
For example, a rare suit handcrafted by legendary tailor, Enzo D'Orsi (who works for the even more legendary Italian tailoring company, Kiton) can fetch prices up to $50,000. Yet, the wearer of such specialized tailoring can rest assured that he has singularly differentiated himself from the masses and that every eye which falls upon him will behold a man who is the epitome of individual class and personal style.
The origin of bespoke tailoring can be traced as far back as the 17th century. But true, from scratch-to-finish British bespoke tailoring is most often associated with the early 19th century shops along central London’s historical Savile Row.
In those days, gentlemen in search of the finest in customized, quality apparel would stroll along the ‘Golden Mile of Tailoring’ and step into any one of the 30 or so exclusive menswear shops lining the street. These powerful, wealthy and stately customers would then be royally attended to and treated to an array of fabrics from which to choose the essence of their own über tailoredsuit. That cloth, so chosen, would then be designated as having been “be spoken for”, thereby precluding any other customer from choosing that same fabric until the initial buyer’s suit was completely finished.
Choice and selection is paramount to bespoke luxury. But, sometimes, so is bold innovation.
Ozwald Boateng (shown here), the maverick creative director of menswear and haute couture house Givenchy, has made quite a name for himself on Savile Row since opening shop there at the age of twenty-eight. Born of Ghanaian parents and raised in North London, Boateng became the youngest tailor (and first of African descent) to join the ranks of the esteemed on Savile Row. As a tailor of unquestionable nuance, his custom-made suits combine modern flair with elegant style so much so that A-list celebrities such as Will Smith, Jude Law and Oscar winner Jamie Foxx are frequently seen wearing his creations. In fact, Jamie Foxx has been repeatedly outfitted by Boateng for his various appearances at the Academy Awards. Boateng’s eclectic approach to bespoke tailoring appeals to the younger set by providing a vast selection of bright colors and slim fitting design options, a vision he hopes will catch on. But for now, it is the traditional clothier who continues to dominate Savile Row.
Renowned clothier Gieves & Hawkes, ideally located at No. 1 Savile Row for over 200 years, have solidified their exalted status over the years for presenting discriminating clientele with tens of thousands of different fabrics and patterns from which to choose. An originator of Savile bespoke tailoring, Gieves and Hawkes’ reputation for providing the highest quality in service is likewise demonstrated by their policy of acquiring additional patterns upon a customer’s request and by offering a personal visiting tailor service to local clients seeking a custom fitting in the convenience of their home or office. Obviously, Gieves & Hawkes understand the needs and wants of today’s luxury apparel buyer.
Since the days of King George III and Admiral Lord Nelson, Gieves & Hawkes have been dressing military commanders, statesmen and the British monarchy. This trend continues as they have been granted the three Royal Warrants of Appointment to HM The Queen, Queen Elisabeth, HRH The Duke of Edinburgh, Prince Philip, and HRH The Prince of Wales, Prince Charles. But Gieves & Hawkes are more than dressmakers to royalty. By expanding on the ideal of attainable luxury in the form of classy, ready-to-wear suits, blazers, shirts and essential accessories, the venerable company now extends its reach to cater to a wider consumer market similarly seeking the ultimate in high end fashion. The new “Gieves Collection” delivers finely made, casual dressing options to trendy sophisticates and steadfast businessmen alike, marrying the quality details of classic tradition with the lively spirit of modern luxury.
In addition to the flagship store on Savile Row, there are twenty two Gieves & Hawkes stores and concessions in the United Kingdom and several more throughout parts of Eastern Asia, Dubai, Turkey, Russia and Ireland.
Though its origins date back over two centuries, true Bespoke Tailoring is far from being buried in the dust of days gone by. With the globalization of business, and a new generation of international movers and shakers taking pride in their appearance, bespoke attire is in as high demand today as it was when the Duke of Wellington won the Battle of Waterloo. If you’re planning to conquer the world, you may as well look good doing it.
